Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
